Soul Proprietor

A weird soul-food staple that you have to try

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oston isn’t exactly considered a hot spot for soul food. But the Hen House is bringing the weird southern-style combination of wings and waffles up north. Just ordering here is a five-part process that starts with choosing between buttermilk or multigrain waffles, then picking from among five herb and Cajun butters, then deciding on a syrup, then selecting chicken tenders, wings, or whole pieces. The final step is committing to a sauce (Jamaican jerk, apricot chipotle, or firecracker, to name a few). The chicken comes on top of the waffles, with the syrup and the sauce delicately on the side. But don’t stand on ceremony. Go for it: Pour the syrup and the sauce over everything, creating one sweet and salty mash of southern deliciousness. Burns

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Chicken and waffles is a combination pioneered by the Harlem nightclub Well’s in the 1930s for late-night customers, including entertainers, who couldn’t decide whether they wanted dinner or breakfast.

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