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Raw Pleasure

A hidden-away restaurant and bar that's all about the oyster

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ven though it’s no longer hidden inside an industrial park on mall-choked Route 132, the Naked Oyster can be hard to find. Once you’ve found its new home on Main Street, though, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to a chic Manhattan bistro, with modern furniture, spun-glass light fixtures, soft jazz, a gleaming mahogany bar, tattooed hostesses dressed all in black, and art by Sarah Holl of Scargo Stoneware and Pottery. There’s none of the city attitude or ridiculously high prices, though, for food that includes an extensive separate oyster menu (try the sampler, which comes with littleneck clams, oysters, and enormous shrimp) featuring oysters harvested by the owner’s son (her daughter is one of those black-garbed hostesses) at the Naked Oyster’s own shellfish farm in Barnstable Harbor, organic produce from farms on Cape Cod, organic beef from Maine’s Wolfneck Farms, fish caught off the Cape only hours before you order it and simply prepared—even Nantucket-made 888 vodka.

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Here’s the naked truth about oysters: They start out as males, releasing sperm into the water the first time they spawn. The same oysters then switch gender and become female, releasing eggs. A single female oyster can produce up to 100 million eggs annually. But it also hates to stop and ask directions.