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Infinitely Good

A smoky taste of Naples, on Nantucket

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t may look from the outside like a plain (by Nantucket standards) gray-shingled saltbox, but Pi Pizzeria is where the island’s top chefs themselves go for the wood-fired, thin crust, Neapolitan pizza in small but surprisingly charming surroundings, or for takeout; try the Great Italian (sausage from Esposito’s in New York, Applegate Farms pepperoni, San Marzano tomatoes, peppers, and onions), with its subtle, smoky flavor, and sip a glass of wine at the cozy bar while you watch it bake in Nantucket’s only commercial wood-fired oven.

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Owner Evan Marley started making pizza on Nantucket in the back of Fahey and Fromagerie, a cheese shop, before he did the math and calculated that it was time to open Pi.